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Preheat the oven to 190C/Gas 5.
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To make the béchamel, melt the butter in a small heavy-based pan over a medium heat.
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Remove from the heat and stir in the flour (this is called a roux). Return the pan to a low heat and cook for two minutes, whisking continuously.
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Remove from the heat again and add the milk, stirring constantly.
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Place over a medium heat and bring to the boil, stirring continuously. Reduce the heat and simmer for 4-5 minutes, stirring continuously. Allow to cool slightly.
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For the soufflé, beat the egg yolks into the béchamel and season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cover with cling film and set aside at room temperature.
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Meanwhile, grease the insides of four individual soufflé dishes or ramekins (10cm/4in in diameter and 6.5cm/2½in deep) with softened butter.
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Sprinkle a handful of the grated gruyère into each soufflé dish, rotating it to coat the insides.
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Place the smoked haddock into a small pan. Add the cream and place over a low heat. When the cream starts to just come to the boil, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for two minutes.
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Turn off the heat and leave to rest until cool enough to handle, then remove the skin from the haddock and flake the fish into a bowl with your fingertips, removing any bones you may find. Return the fish to the heated cream.
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In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt, until soft peaks form when the whisk is removed.
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Place one third of the egg whites into the béchamel mixture and stir well.
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Add the béchamel and egg white mixture to the bowl of remaining egg whites and fold in very gently, adding the gruyère and dill as you fold.
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Half-fill each prepared soufflé dish or ramekin with the soufflé mixture, then spoon in equal amounts of the smoked haddock and cream mixture.
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Fill the dishes with the remaining soufflé so that the mixture is slightly above the top edge.
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Smooth the surface with a palette knife and run a knife around the inside edge of the dish to ease the soufflé mixture away from the side of the dish - this helps the soufflé to rise.
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Stand the soufflé dishes into a deep roasting pan and pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the dishes (this is a bain-marie).
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Place into the oven to cook for 7-8 minutes, or until risen and golden.
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To serve, top each soufflé with a poached quail's egg and a sprig of dill. Serve immediately.